San Cristóbal Highlands – El Junco, La Galapaguera and Puerto Chino

Crossing the island

The journey begins in the dry coastal zone around Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and climbs into the greener, cooler interior of San Cristóbal. Agricultural land, introduced vegetation and humid forest replace the cactus and scrub of the coast.

The road then descends towards the drier south-eastern side of the island. These rapid changes in climate and vegetation are among the most interesting aspects of the excursion and demonstrate how altitude and exposure to the prevailing winds shape Galápagos ecosystems.

El Junco Lagoon

El Junco is a freshwater lagoon occupying an ancient volcanic crater in the highlands. It is generally regarded as the only substantial permanent natural body of freshwater in the Galápagos.

A short uphill path leads to the crater rim, from which a trail follows part or all of the circumference. When the weather is clear, there are broad views across the highlands and towards the coast.

Frigatebirds sometimes visit the lagoon to wash salt from their feathers, an unusual sight for birds normally associated with the ocean. However, wildlife encounters cannot be guaranteed.

Mist, rain and low cloud are common, and the view may be completely obscured. The path can consequently become muddy and slippery. El Junco is geologically and ecologically interesting, but visitors should not necessarily expect a dramatic landscape, if any, on a cloudy day.

La Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado

La Galapaguera at Cerro Colorado is a giant tortoise breeding and conservation centre set within an area of native vegetation. Visitors follow a walking trail through the site and may encounter tortoises near the feeding and watering areas, together with mockingbirds, finches and other land birds.

The centre has played an important role in the recovery of the San Cristóbal giant tortoise. However, the number of tortoises kept there appears to be declining as the programme gradually winds down, with relatively few breeding animals and young tortoises currently visible.

The visit is consequently most worthwhile for travellers who will not see giant tortoises elsewhere. Those who have already visited another tortoise centre—or encountered tortoises living freely in the Santa Cruz highlands—may find that it adds relatively little to their Galápagos experience.

Puerto Chino

Puerto Chino lies near the end of the road on the south-eastern coast. A stepped trail descends through the dry vegetation to a small crescent of pale sand enclosed by dark volcanic rocks.

Sea lions frequently rest on the beach, while marine iguanas and coastal birds may also be present. A rocky viewpoint above the beach can provide wider coastal views and occasional opportunities to observe blue-footed boobies.

Swimming is possible when conditions are suitable, but the beach is exposed to the open ocean. Waves, currents and changing sea conditions should be assessed carefully before entering the water.

Is the highlands excursion worthwhile?

The complete route provides a varied overland day and may appeal to visitors who prefer not to travel by boat, families seeking relatively straightforward walks, or travellers wishing to see a broader cross-section of San Cristóbal.

However, it is not among the excursions I prioritise for a shorter San Cristóbal itinerary. El Junco is often hidden by mist, La Galapaguera now holds relatively few tortoises and reaching Puerto Chino involves a fairly long road journey.

For visitors with limited time, Kicker Rock, La Lobería and the Interpretation Centre and Tijeretas generally offer more distinctive experiences. The highlands remain a reasonable additional option during a longer stay, particularly for visitors who have not already seen giant tortoises elsewhere.

Independent or guided visit

The three sites can generally be visited with a taxi arranged for several hours, although visitors should agree on the route, waiting times and total price before leaving town. An organised or privately guided excursion provides interpretation and avoids the need to coordinate transport independently.

A good guide adds most value by explaining the transition between vegetation zones, the pressures caused by introduced species and agriculture, and the conservation programme for the island’s giant tortoises.

What to bring

Visitors should carry drinking water, sun protection, rain protection and comfortable shoes with good grip. A light layer is useful at El Junco, where conditions can be considerably cooler than on the coast.

Swimming equipment and a towel may be useful at Puerto Chino. Food should be carried if the transport or excursion does not include a lunch stop.

Return to the San Cristóbal overview